Marko’s go to fly

by

I was introduced to this fly at the 2012 World Fly Fishing Championships during the trainin sessions by our guide Marko Gradnik. This was his “go to” fly for all the river sectors of the competition and produced fish for all the members of the team.

Materials

 

Hook Weight Thread Tail Rib Body Wing casing Thorax
Size 10 to 16 Knapek nymph Silver bead Tan Brown pheasant hackle barbules Fine copper wire Hends hare dubbing 22/tan UTC Holographic Tinsel Black Large 75% Hends hare dubbing gray and 25% hends spectra dubbing 15/gray

Process

 

A
  1. Most beads have a large opening at one end and a smaller opening at the other.
  2. Slide a silver tungsten bead over the point of the hook small opening first and position it behind the eye of the hook.

    3. [member Link=”p=345″ Title=”Eyes on flies”]

  3. Wind the thread in touching turns to the bend of the hook.

    4. [member Link=”p=10018″ Title=”Understanding hooks”]

  4. Tie in a tail equal 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the hook shank. Resist the temptation to make the tail too bulky and too long.

 

B
  1. Tie in a length of silver wire.

 

C
  1. Dub on a body starting at almost nothing and gradually increasing in width almost up to the bead.

 

D
  1. Wind the wire ribbing along the dubbed body of the fly forming 4 or 5 segments on the rar half of the body.
  2. Tie the copper wire off behind the bead and break off the excess wire.

 

E
  1. Return the thread half way down the body of the fly.
  2. Depending on the size of the fly tie in one or two lengths of the holographic tinsel.

 
 

F
  1. Dub on a thorax between where the wing casing is tied in and the back of the bead.
  2. Make the thorax just a little thicker than the body.

 

G
  1. Pull the holographic tinsel forward to form the wing casing and lock the wing case into position with several wraps of thread directly behind the bead head.
  2. Trim the extra holographic tinsel.
  3. Whip finish behind the bead head, trim the thread and varnish the thread behind the bead and the bead itself. If you don’t varnish the bead it will tarnish quite quickly.